The Romans once conquered the fertile lands of southern Spain, flourishing in a region known as Andalusia. But what does this ancient civilization have to do with fish? The fall of the Roman Empire was partly due to environmental degradation, including overfishing and the destruction of coastlines. Sadly, today we face a similar predicament. Overfishing and pollution continue to threaten our oceans and the wild fish that inhabit them.
In a recent article, I explored the idea of sustainability in fish consumption. I questioned whether there was a way to produce fish that didn’t harm the environment or endanger our health. Just as we have “grass-fed” meat that comes from regenerative practices, is there a similar concept for fish?
During a recent trip to southern Spain, I discovered an extraordinary fish farm in Seville and Cordova. This farm was not your typical fish farm; it was a sanctuary for birds, a thriving wetland, and a phytoplankton and algae farm. Fish was merely a byproduct of their ecosystem restoration efforts. Luis Contreras, who worked at the farm, shared with me the details of their revolutionary approach over a glass of Spanish Rioja and a meal of fresh, grilled sea bream and gray mullet harvested that morning.
Veta la Palma, as this farm is called, is an 8000-acre wetland estuary in a national park. It produces 2000 tons of delicious, omega-3 rich, toxin-free fish every year. But it’s not just a fish farm; it’s a restored wetland and the largest bird sanctuary in Spain, attracting over 220 species of birds, including pink flamingos that fly hundreds of miles to feast on the high-quality fish produced here. The health of the ecosystem is measured by the health of its predators, just as a rancher would measure the health of their lands by the health of the wolves that feed on the sheep.
Unlike conventional fish farms, which rely on high inputs of energy and create large amounts of waste, Veta la Palma operates differently. It starts with a hatchery that cultivates diverse species. These baby fish require some feed and electricity to manage the water flows in the estuary. However, the overall energy input is minimal compared to the output of biomass. For most of their lives, the fish rely on their natural environment, feasting on phytoplankton and microalgae that convert light, carbon dioxide, and nutrients into nutritious biomass.
Veta la Palma serves as a treatment plant, purifying water, filtering pollutants, and producing food. It even contributes to climate change mitigation. Furthermore, the farm utilizes Salicornia, a type of “weed” that grows abundantly in the marshes. This weed, when consumed by farm animals, lowers cholesterol by 50%. Chefs across Europe are now utilizing Salicornia in their dishes.
The concept of converting neglected wetlands into “grass-fed” fish farms holds immense potential. By nurturing and restoring diverse natural ecosystems, we can not only create a sustainable food source for birds but also improve our own health and the health of our planet. Imagine damaged wetlands worldwide adopting this approach, producing bountiful quantities of seafood and revitalizing their ecosystems.
If you’re skeptical about fish farming, I encourage you to watch a TED talk by chef Dan Barber that tells the story of Veta la Palma in more detail. It will undoubtedly open your eyes to the possibilities of sustainable fish farming.
So, what do you think? Can neglected wetlands be the solution to our fish problem? Do you believe such changes can make a difference in our health and the health of our world? I’d love to hear your thoughts on this matter and any ideas you have for improving our food supply while supporting sustainable environmental change.
To learn more about sustainable seafood and the efforts of Hook’d Up Bar and Grill, visit their website here.
To your good health,
Mark Hyman, MD